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The Advanced Carpet Cleaning Technical Manual

By Jeff Cross

Senior Editor

Taf Baig

Magic Wand Company

CM/Cleanfax magazine

CM/Cleaning & Maintenance Management magazine

The fiber basics

Fiber ID

Fiber tidbits

Fiber to yarn

Fiber/carpet dyeing (color)

Identifying dye problems

Avoiding dye problems when cleaning

Carpet construction (manufacturing)

Problems during cleaning

Carpet soiling

Practical application – cleaning procedures

Methods of cleaning

Chemistry of cleaning

Advanced spot and stain techniques

Spot/stain removal procedures

Other specialty chemicals

Spot dyeing

Marketing your services

Sample carpet warranty

Package pricing for profits

Carpet cleaning homework

IICRC Forms

The fiber basics:

Natural fibers found in carpets and rugs:

Natural fibers aren’t as abundant as synthetics, but they are found often enough that it is important to know what they are and what specific cleaning techniques should be used.

These are fibers that originate from plants and animals… and insects.

Most natural fabrics are very absorbent and require special care and skill, especially with the chemistry used in your cleaning process.

Protein fibers:

1. Protein fibers come from animal or their by-products (wool and silk). The most dangerous chemical to these fibers is sodium hypochlorite, otherwise known as common household (chlorine) bleach. This type of bleach will soften and even dissolve protein fibers.

2. Of benefit: Protein fibers are naturally flame resistant, and normally will hide dirt and give fabrics a “warm” look and feel. For commercial applications, this is a consideration, as more architects and building maintenance managers are concerned with safety (flammability).

Wool specifics:

· The fleece of a sheep or lamb

· This three-part fiber (epidermis, cortex and medulla) dates back to 2000 BC. Wool has a natural crimp which makes it resilient.

· Use care with alkalinity. Most cleaning chemicals are alkaline. Anything above a pH of 8 can be damaging to wool fibers. Wools of New Zealand (an industry-recognized authority of the wool market — www.fernmark.com) has recommended cleaning wool fibers between a pH of 4.5 and 8.5. Research by this group has lowered this number to below 7 in all cases. Dye migration can occur.

· Do not use cationic (remember: CAn’T use cationic) cleaners or additives. Your cleaning solution label should indicate any cationic chemistry in solution.

· When agitating wool fibers, be careful! You can “felt” the fabric if not careful. Felting is the interlocking of the scales of the wool fiber.

· Only use fluorochemicals as fabric protectors – and use sparingly.

· Wool can be damaged in direct sunlight.

· Lamb Wool is the first fleece that is sheered from a sheep that is eight months or younger. It is soft and fine.

· Virgin Wool is wool that has never been processed.

· Pulled Wool is fleeced taken from dead animals and is most often used in making wool carpet fibers.

Silk Specifics:

· Produced by the silkworm, it is the strongest of all natural fibers.

· Silk fibers will easily water mark so be sure to clean them evenly.

· You won’t find silk in a manufactured carpet… although in a valuable area rug this is more probable.

· Texture distorts easily

· Yellows with age

· Spots easily

· Damaged by alkaline and perspiration

Cellulosic Fibers:

· These come from plants or vegetation.

· Examples are cotton and jute.

· Only these fibers can have “cellulosic browning.” Alkaline agents (see section on “chemistry” later in this manual) intensify this, and are not effective in removing browning. If you need alkalinity, always neutralize.

· Using too much water or not drying a fabric fast enough contributes to browning.

· Cotton is highly absorbent which means longer drying times. These fibers are taken from the seed hairs of the cotton plant via ginning.

· Jute is made from the stalks of the jute plant. It is used mostly as a secondary backing on tufted carpets and warp and fill yarns for woven carpets, and blended with sisal for mats. It has good dimensional stability and resistance to dry heat. But it may shrink and rot or brown with over wetting and improper drying.

Synthetic fibers found in carpets and rugs

Synthetic fibers are man-made and manufactured by one of three spinning methods, and are often referred to as “extrusion.” Extrusion is the process in which liquid polymers are spun into fiber, much like water coming from a shower head. These fibers are then cooled in a cooling chamber until solidified.

They can be extruded to look “shiny,” “delustered,” or a mix of the two. It depends on the shape of the aperture of the spinneret. Crimping following extrusion creates “bulk” in fibers. When two or more fibers (called “filaments”) are twisted together, a “plied” yarn results, with more strength. Similar to a twisted rope.

When the fiber is not cut into small lengths, it is called “bulk continuous filament” or BCF. When cut into small lengths, the term is “staple” fiber. All natural fibers are staple, because they are short lengths. In theory, BCF fibers can be produced with no end of the fiber in sight.

All fibers, as a best case scenario, should be cleaned under a pH of 10.

Nylon:

Nylon was developed in the 1930s by Dr. Wallace Carouthers and is the most popular face fiber used in carpet manufacturing today.

– Nylon is dissolved by strong acids such as formic, muriatic and sulfuric, and melts at 425 degrees Fahrenheit.

– It is resilient – springs back when crushed – has a low soil absorbency, and is dyed mainly with acid dyes but disperse dyes are a possibility. Solution dyeing (pigmented dyeing) is also used.

– Very popular blended with olefin, especially in commercial applications.

The five generations of nylon development:

1. First generation: Round, strong, durable and shiny

2. Second generation: Tri-lobial, giving it soil hiding abilities (modified cross-section)

3. Third generation: Modified cross-section…built-in anti-static properties, using carbon-core in the nylon fiber.

4. Fourth generation: Modified cross-section, anti-stat and soil/stain repellency (fluorochemical) added.

5. Fifth generation: Modified cross-section, anti-stat, soil/stain repellency (fluorochemical), and stain resistance (acid dye blockers) added.

Types of nylon in carpet:

Type 6: Single unit nylon polymer, easily dyed and also easier to stain or fade, made by Allied, BASF.

Type 6, 6: Double unit nylon polymer, harder to dye but also harder to stain or fade, made by DuPont, Solutia.

(Note: Fiber producers change hands. DuPont spawned Invista which then was sold to Koch, and Monsanto turned into Solutia. So 6,6 can have DuPont, Invista, Koch, Solutia, Monsanto on the label, depending on era.)

Nylon is known best as the fiber with stain resistant capabilities, because of the mill-applied stain resistancy.

Some come with manufacturer warranties, applying only to owner-occupied dwellings. These warranties cover common food and household spills, but exclude bleaches, pigmented stains, cationic cleaners, heavy use of dry solvents, disperse dyes (mustards), high-alkaline cleaners and spotters, and more.

It is recommended these carpets be cleaned every 6-18 months, depending on usage. Hot water extraction preferred. For a list of recommended cleaning methods by carpet mills, visit the Carpet & Rug Institute website at www.carpet-rug.com.

Olefin (polypropylene):

Olefin fibers are the least absorbent (actually = adsorbent) of all synthetics and will float on water. Problem: Likes oily soils.

– Has a specific gravity less than 1

– Heat sensitive; temperatures of 250 degrees Fahrenheit and a melting temperature near 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Be careful when dragging furniture as the heat friction can actually “melt” the olefin fibers.

– Has a tendency to matt down

– Always solution dyed (with pigment) and is naturally stain resistant because of lack of dye sites, and is not affected to bleaches

– To prevent wicking, prevacuum, make additional extraction passes and use air movers

Polyester:

Polyester comes originally from England; it’s normally a staple fiber that is disperse dyed.

– It is adsorbent, and wicking problems may occur

– Cleans easily, very colorfast and stain resistant

– Melts at close to 480 degrees Fahrenheit

– Often made from recycled plastic beverage bottles

– Resistant to bleaches, but color loss still occurs

Acrylic:

Currently has no market share… developed to be a synthetic replacement for wool.

– It is adsorbent

– It is dyed by either solution or disperse dye systems

– Dissolves in nitric acid and melts at 450 degrees Fahrenheit

Corterra PTT:

– Beneficial because it has properties and qualities of both nylon and polyester

– Shell Oil developed ingredients

– Good resilience

– Good stain resistance

– No static problems

– Shaw & Interface only two mills using it

– Designed for health care and apartments

– Only has a tiny influence on the market, but could expand easily as qualities are advertised

Characteristics of fiber types:

Fiber Advantage Disadvantage

Nylon	Dyes easily, very resilient, easy to clean, hides soils, accepts protectants well, easy to perform spot removal	If not stain resistant, nylon fibers can be stained by acid dyes, found in most spills
Olefin	Olefin is solution dyed, so there are no dye sites and thus extremely spot and stain resistant. Cleans easily, colorfast	Tends towards pile reversal, matting, crushing, abrasion (wear), can’t be color repaired, likes oily spills, melts easily.
Polyester	Very colorfast, spot and stain resistant, cleans easily	Matts and crushes easily, likes oily spills, abrasion (wear)
Wool	Wears well due to natural crimp, hides dirt, easy to repair color, feels “warm” and cleans easily	Costly, easy to stain, pools in heavy traffic, damaged by some alkaline agents, dissolved by bleach spills
Cotton	Dyes easily and withstands bleach	Shrinks, stains easily, absorbs dirt, subject to cellulosic browning

Fiber identification:

Why bother? Is this important?

Fiber identification tells you exactly what you are working on, and what is safe and what is not. A true professional will want to know his “patient” – so to speak.

There are two basic ways for fiber ID

Burn testing (a simple way to ID fiber):

This method evaluates several things

1. The color of the flame

2. The way the flame acts

3. The color of the smoke

4. The odor of the burning fiber

5. The color and luster of the burned fiber

6. The shape and hardness of the burned fiber

Synthetic fibers burn/melt and result in a hard plastic bead, while natural fibers burn and have an easily-crumbled ash. Since wool and silk are naturally flame-resistant they may not burn easily.

Tools needed to burn test: Ashtray or similar protective surface, tweezers, odorless butane lighter, duckbill scissors, a sensitive nose.

Fiber identification chart

Fiber Flame Odor Ash Color Chemical ID

Wool/Silk	Orange, sputters	Burning hair for wool Burning feathers for silk	Irregular, black, crumbles	Light black	Dissolves in bleach
Cotton/jute	Orange, smolders	Burning paper	Irregular and crumbly	Gray	Dissolves in sulfuric acid
Rayon	Orange	Burning paper	Very little ash and no bead	Gray	Dissolves in sulfuric acid
Acetate	Sizzles	Acetic acid	Hard bead	Black	Dissolves in acetone
Acrylic	White, orange, sputters, black smoke	Acid and harsh, burning meat	Irregular and hard, can be crushed	Black	No response
Nylon	Orange, blue base, even flame	Celery	Round bead, very hard	Grey, brown or black	Dissolves in formic acid
Olefin (Polypropylene)	Orange, blue base,	Tar or asphalt	Round bead, very hard	Light tan or brown	Floats in water, has less specific gravity
Polyester (and Corterra)	Orange, sputters, very black smoke	Sweet and fruity	Round bead, very hard	Jet black, shiny	No response

Some of the above fibers are not common to carpets and rugs (rayon, acrylic, acetate) but it is good to know their identity as they are found in furniture goods.

The second way for fiber identification is to use the last entry on the chart – chemical reaction.

Some fiber tidbits

Wool/silk: Wool dates back to over 2000 BC and still considered the finest fiber available. You won’t find much silk in anything except fine area rugs or upholstered fabrics. For wool: A good sense of smell works fine. Wet wool smells like a wet dog. A burn test for wool will show it ignites and burns with a sputter and smells like burning hair. Wool will char and pull or curl away from the flame. Once pulled away from the flame, it normally self-extinguishes. It makes a true ash in that it easily crumbles. Burned silk smells like burned feathers.

Cotton/Jute: These are both cellulosic fibers and ignite easily when a flame is applied. It will burn rapidly with an orange or yellow flame. When pulled from the flame, it will continue to burn rapidly and have a red “afterglow” when the flame goes out. It smells like burning paper – because it is! Since it is a natural fiber, the ash is crumbly. (Note: Natural fibers are absorbent and so take more drying time). Cellulosic browning can only come from plant fibers.

Rayon: This fiber scorches and ignites easily. Once the flame is applied, it burns fast with an orange flame and sometimes blue. When pulled from the flame, it continues to burn fast with a red “afterglow” when the flame goes out. It smells like burning paper because that is its original content. It leaves a soft ash.

Acetate: This fiber will sizzle and have an acid odor to it. The bead is hard and black. It will dissolve in acetone. Found in some furniture/upholstery goods.

Acrylic: Acrylic will melt and shrink away from the flame. Once the flame is applied, it will burn fast, with bright, sputtering flames. Smells mostly like burning meat, and has lots of smoke. It will even drip as it burns. Has appearance of wool.

Nylon: This most popular fiber will melt and shrink from an approaching flame. Once in the flame, it will melt and burn slowly and have virtually no smoke. It will self-extinguish. Formic acid is the easiest test for nylon.

Olefin: This is an easy one. All things being equal, it floats in water. It’s the least absorbent fiber on the market. Test it in a cup of water with a small amount of dish soap. That will break the surface tension and allow a true test. Put the fiber in the water, squeeze out the air, and if it floats right to the top, it’s olefin. For burn testing, it melts and shrinks away from the flame, and once in the flame, it melts and burns, and when withdrawn, continues to burn.

Polyester: This fiber melts and shrinks from the flame, and once in the flame it melts and burns slowly. When withdrawn, it continues to burn slowly, melts and drips. It has a slightly sweet smell. Plastic beverage bottles are made into polyester fibers.

From fiber to yarn

BCF (bulk continuous filament) requires twisting and heatsetting

Staple requires

· Blending

· Carding

· Pin drafting

· Spinning plying

· Heat setting

Staple sheds due to short pieces

Hot water extraction refreshes the yarn memory.

Fiber/Carpet dyeing (color)

This is a very important subject to become an expert in. Knowing how a carpet or fiber receives its color unlocks a lot of mysteries with cleaning and spot/stain removal.

Colors and perception:

Color must have a light source. Color appears when light is reflected. There are three primary colors: Red, blue and yellow. All colors come from mixing two or three of these primary colors.

Secondary colors:

· Green – from mixing blue and yellow

· Violet – from mixing red and blue

· Orange – from mixing red and yellow

Adding color to fibers:

There are several ways that manufacturers add color to fibers. Understanding this will help you with your cleaning process – it will especially help keep you out of trouble.

· Solution dyeing: This is actually a term that could be argued as incorrect. A “pigment” is added to a liquid polymer solution before the yarns are extruded. In other words, the carpet fibers receive their color when they are still in a liquid state. All olefin fibers are solution dyed. Solution dyed fibers are colorfast and withstand bleach.

· Piece dyeing: This is a dye procedure performed after the fiber is made (if manmade) into “greige goods,” (pronounced “gray”) which refers to undyed face yarns tufted into a primary backing. This is the most popular system (nylon esp). The dye is applied to the goods when a primary backing is attached. Beck, or “batch” dyeing, or continuous dyeing are two systems.

· Stock dyeing: This is the method where raw stock is dyed in a pressurized vat. Usually blended and carded prior to spinning to provide an even color from one batch to another.

· Yarn dyeing: Also called skein dyeing, when large skeins or bales of yarns are dipped into dyes, or into a pressure vat.

· Print dyeing: This is the direct application of dye in the form of a pattern to the carpet face. Not as common.

Color concerns:

· Dye lot variance is most often seen in commercial applications when carpet from different dye lots is put down side-by-side.

· Installer error can give the colors an abrupt change. If the installer reverses the nap during installation, the light reflection at the seam changes.

· Pile distortion will give the appearance of color gain or loss. The light reflection is changed in certain areas.

Identifying dye problems

Your customers will see a dye problem as a cleaning problem. Most of the time, that’s not the case. So be prepared to “speak the lingo” and at least be able to explain the principles of color.

1. Crocking: This is the physical transfer of color in a dry or wet situation.

2. Bleeding: This is the removal or transfer of color in the presence of liquid, with no physical action necessary.

3. Fading: This occurs when fibers are placed in direct light (ultraviolet). The UV rays from the sun attack the dyes and remove or change color.

4. Ozone: Ozone gas combines with moisture in the air to form mild hydrogen peroxide bleach. This will remove color.

5. Fumes: Pollutants and gasses in the air contacting dyes can remove color.

6. Indicator dyes: When acid or alkaline chemicals are applied to indicator dyes, they change color. Most often into pink or purple spots. Sometimes so much it’s scary. Apply the reverse chemical (on the pH scale) and the situation is almost always correctable.

7. Chemicals: There are so many various chemicals that can cause color damage or loss we can’t name them all here. Some you will encounter, though, are insecticides (especially along baseboards), medicines and bleach products (sodium hypochlorite).

Dye terms

· Pigment – color like paint, not really a dye

· Dye site – the area of the fiber that accepts color

· Acid dye blocker – clear dye that fills dye sites

Other color problems:

· Metamerism: When customers don’t see the color you see…

· Pile reversal, shading: When the fiber changes direction and the light reflects differently

· Wear: Anything worn looks less vibrant

· Sidematch: From one carpet lot to another, the color can vary and you see it when they are put side-by-side

· Soil shading: Soils are a fiber’s enemy. Permanent shading can result if maintenance isn’t employed

· Indicator dyes: Altering the pH creates color change

Avoiding dye problems when cleaning

Most modern carpets are not going to create a problem…

But when you start believing in that completely, you will find a problem lurking somewhere.

Ø Dye migration: Dyes will migrate when they are disturbed beyond what they “like.” Moisture will move some dyes, and adding alkalinity makes that happen faster. Heat accelerates this process. Dyes will often not migrate until the last phase of drying, and then they will move. You won’t be there to see it.

Ø How to avoid this problem – less is best: Use less moisture, less alkalinity, less drying time. Apply an acid overspray or use an acid rinse when you must use alkaline products. Use cooler solutions when migration is a concern. If any suggestion of color migration or color loss is evident, apply an acid overspray and get it dry fast.

Carpet construction (manufacturing)

1. Weaving (woven): Carpets made with this technique are created on a loom, with face yarns intertwined with warp and weft yarns (length and width). Most woven carpets have no secondary backing. This comprises nearly 2 percent of the residential market and 5 percent of the commercial market. The four components of a woven good include the pile, weft, warp and latex backcoat.

2. Tufting: Most carpets are made with this construction. Basically, yarns are stitched into a primary backing. This method makes up for nearly 90 percent of all carpet manufactured. The face yarns can be cut or looped. The four components are the face yarns, primary backing, latex coating, and secondary backing.

Stitch and gauge rate: The gauge is the width of the piece, and measurements like 1/8 means there are 8 tufts in one inch. The stitch rate closely follows the gauge rate, and measures the tufts in the length of the carpet.

3. Needlepunched: This method takes a needle punching machine with thousands of barbed needles, which work to penetrate a web of fibers and entangles, penetrates and compresses the fibers to produce a “felt” like product. (Imagine a bunch of tangled fibers.)

4. Fusion bonded: This manufacturing method is found mostly in carpet or modular tiles. The yarns are melted into the backing material; the textile is literally “bonded” with the backing.

5. Electrostatically flocked: An adhesive is laid on a support device, which travels a production line. Fibers are introduced with an electronic “attraction.” Not a common method.

6. Carpet tile (module): These are fibers put onto an adhesive onto a primary backing only, made into replaceable square tiles.

Carpet pile styles

The two basic types of fibers are continuous (never ending) and staple (short and cut). These are used to make:

1. Loop: Mostly found in Berber style carpets, and a large portion of commercial grade carpets.

2. Cut: Found mainly in residential settings. Saxony (smooth, level finish with a twist), velvet plush (high-density, cut pile, no heat twist) or frieze (loose, extremely twisted, curly yarns). About 1/3 in commercial settings. This design uses heat-set and twist. (See below for examples of cut pile)

Frieze:

Saxony:

Plush/velvet:

3. Cut-and-loop: A mixture of the two, common equally in residential and commercial settings.

Note: To find out more, go to the Carpet & Rug Institute website at: www.carpet-rug.com.

Carpet backings

The material used for carpet backings are almost exclusively made of polypropylene.

Backings give a carpet dimensional stability, increases carpet strength and improves the hand (feel) of the piece.

Synthetic backings don’t shrink. Natural (such as jute) backings can shrink and rot.

Carpet cushion

Pad types:

1. Bonded polyurethane foam (rebond): Made from scraps of urethane and other cushions; easy to identify. Some claim this chemical blend creates carpet “yellowing.” The density can vary. Comes in six-foot wide rolls.

2. Polyurethane foam: This cushion has thousands of air cells and air pockets, with a plastic skin coating. Most resembles the yellow foams found in upholstered furniture or automobile upholstery.

3. Waffle: The waffle design traps air to the cushion. Best seller in Australia. Dense cushion, can stick to the floor as it ages.

4. Flat rubber, sponge: Just what the name implies.

5. Hair and jute: Natural fibers aren’t used as much in carpet cushions as in the past. Problems: Shrinkage, rotting, mold, browning, foul odors.

6. Others: Some cushions are now made of recycled products, such as plastic bottles, tire treads, etc. And corn husk.

Note: Carpet cushion needs to be of proper density and thickness so as to help carpet resist matting and crushing.

Installation

Having a good knowledge of proper installation is important.

You don’t need to be an installer to be a professional carpet cleaning technician, but you should know what a good (and bad) installation looks like. Installers many times use a “knee kicker” instead of a power stretcher. All carpet installed over a tackstrip need to be powerstretched.

All carpet glued down should have the proper amount of glue, with a trowel in good shape. Old trowels lose their depth in the teeth or notches.

Installation Standards

l Commercial 104

l Residential 105

These may be downloaded free from www.carpet-rug.com

Installation concerns

· Sprouting Tufts (clip off)

· Pulled Row or Tufts (repair)

· Seam Failure (absence of seam sealer)

· Rippling (knee kicker)

· Dye Loss (resection or spot dye)

· Bubbles (inject adhesive)

· Tackless Failure (need to re-nail)

Test to see which way the pile lays. Rub a pencil over a piece of paper and determine the direction of the nap. All carpet in a room/location should run the same way.

Problems you will encounter and be expected to correct:

Wear: This is simply what happens to carpet when it is used. It is the reduction in pile fiber density in traffic lanes (loss of face fiber). Manufacturers will say carpet doesn’t wear; it mats down. (Complaints can be prevented by an accurate pre-inspection and explanation for all carpet problems). Carpets may appear darker in traffic lanes due to normal wear and abrasion, even after cleaning.

Rippling: When a carpet ripples during cleaning, inform the customer and wait until the carpet is dry. The carpet normally goes back to its previous state.

Matting: When carpet fibers are pushed down and tangle.

Abrading: Soils scratch and damage fibers. It affects how light reflects off of a fiber’s surface, thus making it appear dull. When you clean a carpet until it is perfectly clean, if there is abrading, it can still look soiled. Compare this to rubbing sandpaper over your windshield and then trying to clean the windshield so it looks good.

Delamination: May be caused by age or traffic, and when found in newer carpet is normally caused by improper formulation or application of latex adhesives during manufacturing.

Crimp loss: When the fibers appear longer because the crimp (either natural or manmade) is lost. This happens due to exposure, vacuuming, traffic, etc. Crimping adds bulk in fibers.

Pile reversal: When the fibers change direction in the carpet… an abrupt change that makes the carpet appear lighter and darker in the same area.

Watermarking: When the fiber direction changes and the light reflection varies. This happens most with dense carpets, creating a texture change in the pile. Test with mirror to see this phenomenon.

Shedding: The release of short, loose fibers and lint shear from carpet pile. Just keep vacuuming it up!

Corn rowing: The tangling of alternating sets of stitch row yarns in heavy traffic areas.

Crushing: The packing down of yarns that lack resiliency, especially olefin.

Filter soiling: Dark lines along walls and under doors is associated with air pollution and may permanently alter the appearance of the carpet.

Pooling: A texture change in pile, confined and round distortions in traffic areas, especially with wool carpets.

Fume fading: This comes about due to sunlight or other light sources removing color from the carpet (usually the color red), or from soils that affect the dyes. Atmospheric gases passing over or through carpet pile.

Pulled tufts: Tufts that are pulled from the latex need to be reglued or clipped from the carpet. Also called “sprouting” tufts.

Installer error: There are too many installer errors to mention them all, but a few common ones include improper installation of tackstrip, not stretching the carpet properly (using a power stretcher). Dimensional stability (the ability of carpet to retain its size and shape after installation) is compromised. The Carpet & Rug Institute standard CRI 105 states that for residential carpets installation, carpets must be installed using a power stretcher.

Note: Some of the above terms can be interchanged, depending on the specific carpet concern.

Carpet soiling

Soil is anything that shouldn’t be there

Types of soils: Most soils are acidic, and between two and 10 microns (a micron is a measurement of 1/1,000,000 of a meter). Fine particulate soils can scratch and abrade fibers, giving them a dull appearance. Thus, a great reason to keep carpets clean all the time. Frequent vacuuming is best for removing most fine particulate soils. Nearly 80 percent of dry soils can be vacuumed away. The use of walk-off mats will protect carpets. Carpet acts as a sink that will trap particle soils, dander (human and animal) and many other pollutants.

· Water soluble soils: These are soils that can be absorbed into a water-based carrier. Examples: Beverages, tracked-in soils, food spills, pet “spills.”

· Solvent soluble soils: These are soils that need a solvent to dissolve them. Examples: Tar, oil, grease, greasy foods, cosmetics, sugars.

· Insoluble soils: These are soils that cannot be absorbed or dissolved. Example: Beach sand, hair, clay, carbon (copy toner).

IAQ guidelines

· Keep porches/entryways clean

· Remove shoes at doors (87% of soils are tracked by shoes)

· Use quality vacuum cleaners

· Use quality vacuum filter bags

· Use filters in the HVAC system

· Clean carpets on a regular basis

· Clean all textiles on a regular basis

In recent years, some have said that carpet harms indoor air quality. This study in Sweden rejects that thought:

Practical application – cleaning procedures

Principles

TACT (Time, agitation, chemical action, temperature) Balance these four principles out during the cleaning process. If you reduce one, you must increase another. It’s a balancing act.

Time: This includes chemical dwell time and working time

Agitation: Works solution into the fiber, distributes preconditioner, suspends soils

Chemical action: Proper formulation and use of chemicals suspends soils and breaks them down, reduces surface tension of water.

Temperature: Hot cleans best, within reason. Cleaning goes faster with hot water. Anyone that has washed a dirty, greasy dish knows this. For every 18 degrees Fahrenheit above 118 degrees Fahrenheit, you increase the chemical activity by 2 X. Some claim that hot water extraction will create a new fiber “memory” by using extreme temperatures (called “heat setting”) but it is virtually impossible to get water that hot.

Inspection – Always inspect before you clean. An accurate, honest inspection keeps the working relationship you develop with your client. Use inspection lights, moisture probes, pretest your cleaning solution, test for fiber content.

Vacuuming – Not everyone does it, especially in the era of powerful truckmounts. But vacuuming removes, according to industry studies, 74 to 79 percent of insoluble soils (soils that can’t be dissolved). Most dry soils accumulate in the main entry area, so spend more time there. Always change vacuum bags when they are 1/2 to 1/3 full.

Preconditioning – This is the workhorse of the operation. You can use a pump-up, electric or inline sprayer. A quality preconditioner will break down soils and make the entire job go smoothly. For cleaning stain resist carpets, use a pH cleaner less than 10. Get the carpet as dry as possible, and do not use any cationic conditioners. Tips: Put down enough pretreatment so that it doesn’t dry out before you rinse. Overlap each stroke by a few inches so you don’t have “dead zones,” or areas without pretreatment. The hotter, the better.

Rinsing – One the soils are loosened by the preconditioner, you must rinse the carpet. A low pH surfactant will work with the preconditioner and get a carpet cleaner, and using softened water improves cleaning and allows you to use less detergents. Note: Using improper wand stroking patterns or clogged spray jets with hot water extraction can leave streaks in the carpet as you rinse. Over wetting is always caused by technician error.

Spot and stain removal – Most spots will come out during the regular cleaning procedure, but stubborn spots or permanent stains need more attention. (See section “Advanced spot and stain removal” in back of book) When using solvent spotters on stain resistant carpets, re-apply protector. Many spots – such as from soft drinks – are covered by stain-resistant nylon warranties.

Grooming and drying – As you work your way through a job, use a carpet rake to set the nap, and leave an air mover in a room just cleaned. This will speed the dry time. The time required to drying is influenced by the level of soiling, the method of cleaning, and the humidity/air flow in the area. Drying should occur within 6-8 hours.

Tidbits – Using an air mover is a must when applying deodorizers or fabric protectors. As you add moisture, you must speed up the dry time. Most overwetting is caused by technician error. A carpet’s natural fiber backing can shrink. Cleaning procedures promote wicking, the upward flow of moisture on fiber surfaces, which then evaporates in the air. Soils not removed during cleaning may very well wick up to the tips of the carpet, creating a call-back for you.

Always put protective pads or blocks under furniture. Leave wet floor signs so they are easily visible. Cleaning technicians should recommend that customers do not walk on damp carpet as soils can be tracked onto the cleaned surface, and a damp surface is a slip and fall hazard.

Methods of cleaning

Note: No matter the method, always pretest and follow direction when using any cleaning or spotting agent. Dispose of recovered wastewater into a sewer line leading to a wastewater treatment facility.

Absorbent compound – This method uses a compound – an absorbent carrier – which is applied onto the carpet (after vacuuming, preconditioning, etc), worked in by hand, brush or machine and attaches to soils that are then vacuumed away.

Absorbent pad – This is a popular method, commonly called “bonnet” cleaning. A solvent/detergent preconditioner is applied to the carpet, and a bonnet detergent solution is used in conjunction with a camp cotton or rayon pad for a “spin buffing” of the carpet. Bonnets need to be turned/exchanged before they become completely soiled (when it stops absorbing). You can clean up 300-600 square feet with a single bonnet, depending on soil conditions.

Dry foam – A dense foaming detergent (foaming surfactant and alkaline builder) is applied to the carpet, typically by machine, and worked in. The excessive foam and soils are removed with wet vacuuming.

Shampoo – A foaming surfactant, alkaline builder and dry solvent additive formulation is applied to the carpet and agitated with a rotary type brush system. This machine feeds the solution into the carpet. After soils are loosened and suspended, they are wet vacuumed away.

Hot water extraction (steam) – Surfactants, alkaline builders and dry solvent additives (in most cases) are used, with preconditioning, dwell time, agitation and physical removal through extraction taking place. This is the method preferred by most carpet manufacturers. Most spots on stain-resist nylons are removed in this process, and specialized spotting attempts are performed only after cleaning an area overall. Most extraction units have a water pump, water heater (not true steam) chemical system, hoses, cleaning tool, recovery tank and vacuum, plus others that could be proprietary.

Newer methods:

Encapsulation – is the process where an encapsulating chemical is worked into the soiled carpet (mainly commercial) and surrounds the soil, dries to a crystal, and is vacuumed after drying. Agitation makes this system work best.

Soil Transfer Extraction – is a method created by The Tennant Company that uses nylon brushes in a machine to transfer soil to the machine without spraying water directly onto the carpet.

The 7 steps of cleaning (Memorize these…)

1. Prevacuum

2. Precondition

3. Agitation

4. Rinse

5. Remove remaining spots/stains

6. Groom

7. Dry

For all cleaning methods using extraction… the vacuum system is of vital importance. You can suspect soils all day long, but if you can’t remove them… vacuum efficiency is measured by combining lift (Hg or H20) and airflow (cubic feet per minute). Life is most important in water damage restoration, while airflow is most important in carpet cleaning. Example: 15 inches of Hg lift at 400 CFM. If that’s the rating of your machine, you probably have a relief valve set to go off if you hit the maximum rating.

Safety issues and tidbits: Start at the furthest point from entry and work back out. Electrical cords must be properly grounded. Make sure any exhaust fumes that can cause possible carbon monoxide poisoning are directed outside and away from any population (vented away from doors and windows), where they cannot enter the structure. Always dispose of wastewater in a sewer line leading to a waste water treatment facility. Propane fuel tanks, if used, must be mounted externally on the work vehicle. Label your containers!

Note: Regardless of the system used, make sure there are chemical resistant gloves, splash goggles and first aid kits available to all technicians.

Other chemicals

Deodorizers and disinfectants are used on an as-needed basis. With the proliferation of Fidos and Fluffies, this is a great money-maker. Don’t expect that you will get great results just “spritzing” the chemical on top of the carpet. Special techniques are needed, including injecting the approved chemical into the backing and padding of the carpet.

Fabric protectors greatly help keep a carpet clean. Whether you use a solvent blend or water based overspray, follow directions and never over-promise the product.

Acidic oversprays are used when you must neutralize a chemical. When cleaning wool, for example, misting an acidic chemical will neutralize any chemical that you might have had to use, especially if the carpet was severely soiled. It also gives the fabric a nice “hand,” or feel.

Note: Always carry Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for every product in every truck. They must be stored within easy reach of a seat-belted driver, available to anyone needing them in an emergency or inspection.

Chemistry of cleaning

It all comes down to one word: Solvent.

A solvent is a substance that dissolves another substance. Soils either need to be physically removed while dry (vacuuming) or physically removed while wet (cleaning).

Ø Solution: A liquid mixture when one component is dissolved into another, but then separates when dry

Ø Emulsion: A mixture when an oily soil is broken down due to detergency, and spread evenly throughout the solvent (water)

Ø Suspension: A mixture when components are not dissolved, but remain suspended and dispersed do to the forces of the detergent

Let’s talk about the wet stuff:

Soaps: True soaps are made by converting fat into soap, using lye as the converter.

Detergents (synthetic): Most of us use a preconditioner, and most likely it is a synthetic detergent, with surfactants (a surfactant is a chemical exchange that reduces water’s surface tension, allowing it to penetrate and clean).

Chemical solution specifics:

1. Anionic: a negative charge, mainly shampoos

2. Cationic: A positive charge, included in most disinfectants, quaternary ammonium chloride, biocides, bactericides, fungicides, liquid fabric softeners (Remember, you CAnT use cationic cleaners/chemicals for most fabrics, and it can void a consumer carpet warranty, which extends to owner-occupied residences.)

3. Non-ionic: There is no charge. Found in a variety of cleaners, pretreatments

Quality soaps (remember: Real soaps can cause rapid resoiling) and detergents create defloculation. Don’t worry; that’s a good thing. Defloculation is the separating of soils from a surface. (Example: Liberally pour pepper into dish of water, touch surface with soap)

Two letters carpet cleaners must know: pH

pH stands for p(otential of) H(ydrogen); the logarithm of the reciprocal of hydrogen-ion concentration in gram atoms per liter; provides a measure on a scale from 0 to 14 of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution (where 7 is neutral and greater than 7 is alkaline and less than 7 is acidic).

Laymen’s terms: When an acid is poured into water, it gives up H (hydrogen) to the water. When an alkaline is poured into water, it gives up OH (hydroxide) to the water. So the stronger the acid or alkaline chemical, the more movement (ion) you get from neutral (7).

Ions and pH

Atoms. The atom is made up of neutrons which have no charge, protons which have a positive charge, and electrons which have a negative charge. Atoms always have an equal number of electrons and protons, so the charges cancel each other out.

Ions. If an atom picks up an electron (-), it becomes negatively charged; there are now more electrons than protons. If an atom loses an electron (-), it becomes positively charged; there are now more protons than electrons. Atoms with electron imbalances are called ions.

Think of the pH scale as a rumbling, dangerous chemical reaction. As you increase or decrease one whole number on the pH scale, you get a reaction that is 10 X the amount from the previous number.

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Numbers 0-6 are acidic, while 8-14 are alkaline. The pH scale stops at 14. Distilled water has a pH of 7.

The strength of a cleaning solution is determined by its pH and its concentration. A chemical with a pH of 10 is 1,000 times stronger than a chemical with a pH of 7. A chemical with a pH of 2 is 100,000 times stronger than a chemical with a pH of 7. Generally, keep the pH of your cleaning chemical at or below 10 for stain resistant carpets.

Note: Changing the pH of a fiber can alter an indicator dye. Use the opposite pH to correct this.

Visual:

pH 7 – piece of paper

pH 8 – 10 sheets of paper

pH 9 – Cleanfax magazine

pH 10 – regular bowling statue

pH 11 – average sized man

pH 12 – a six story building

pH 13 – Washington Monument

pH 14 – Denver, Colorado’s elevation

In a perfect world, you want to use a chemical that is exactly opposite of what soils you are cleaning.

Example: Tomato juice has a pH of 4.5. The perfect cleaning chemical pH is 9.5. Because most soils are acidic in nature, most cleaning chemicals are alkaline in nature.

The American Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists (AATCC) and most fiber manufacturers recommend a pH of 10 or less when cleaning. Less is best. You can use litmus paper to determine pH of any chemicals you use.

Approximate pH values show what chemistry you should use:

· Milk: 6.4

· Grapefruit: 3.2

· Ammoniated cleanser: 11

· Tomatoes: 4.5

· Cheese: 5

· Milk of Magnesia: 10.5

· Vinegar: 3

· Coffee: 5

· Cola: 3

· Battery acid spill: 0

· Fresh urine: 6

· Old urine: 8

Advanced spot and stain techniques

No matter how well you clean, if you leave a spot or stain behind, that’s what the customer sees. Even if you remove a spot, a residue left behind can make a spot reappear. Use the following guidelines for success:

Spot & stain identification:

Utilize the stain wheelä (see chart)

Can you tell what these spots and stains come from?

Can you tell if a fabric is “stain resist?”

Which spots are actually stains and will require extra effort?

Other common spots that need expounding:

Filtration lines, capillary action (“wicking up” also means “redo” to us), Mustard stains – add oxygen and cover with plastic or use UV light, other color stains like Kool-Aid can be a challenge.

Tools to have in spot and stain kit:

· Flip-top bottles

· Trigger sprayers

· Funnel

· Ultraviolet light

· Tamping brush (for working chemical in and agitation)

· Scraper

· White cotton towels

· Duckbill napping shears

· Pipettes

· Measuring cups

· pH test kit, including butane lighter and tweezers

· Iron or steamer for color stain removal

Chemistry needed:

· Dry solvents: Volatile (dries or evaporates quickly and completely, with no residuals) dry solvent (VDS) can be a formulated dry solvent or a citrus solvent (good for gum removal), used for oily spots (and mystery spots). A non-volatile dry solvent (NVDS), or a POG solvent is used for paint, oil, grease, and must be rinsed out with a VDS or very hot water because they can cause rapid resoiling. Many NVDS are gels. (Cautions: These dissolve latex, damages foam, can cause skin damage including dryness, creating poor indoor air quality). Acetone is a solvent you can use on synthetics, but don’t use on any fibers with acetate as the solvent will dissolve the fiber. Use adequate ventilation with solvents. Only spot clean with dry solvents; never clean entire sections.

· Wet solvents: These can be alkaline (ammonias), acid (7% acetic, as found in vinegars, and good for coffee (tea and coffee create tannin stains), urine or feces removal), or neutral cleaners, protein spotters, digesters (enzymes for protein stains like egg, blood, dairy products) and rinses. (Cautions: Alkalines can cause dye bleeds and color transfers).

· Rust removers: Oxalic, hydrofluoric, phosphoric acids, or other formulations. Use caution, and always neutralize and rinse. (Can etch glass, burn skin)

· Reducing agents: Sodium hydrosulfite, sodium bisulfite, etc. are used with heat activation to remove unwanted colors by removing oxygen from the fiber. These can also remove original colors, so use caution. (Accelerate with acids)

· Oxidizers: Most popular include hydrogen peroxide (accelerate with ammonia), a fairly safe color bleach (store in cool, dry area, use fresh only). Oxidizers add oxygen to the fiber. Household bleach is an oxidizer, (never add ammonia!) but is generally banned from the carpet cleaner’s kit, as color damage can be extensive.

· Red dye removers: A heat transfer system that physically removes color from fibers. Dye stains are the most difficult to remove and may require “sectioning” or “patching” the carpet.

Note: Always be aware of the flash point of volatile solvents – the flash point is the temperature at which dry solvents ignite when exposed to an ignition source.

Spot/stain removal procedures:

1. Remove contamination (blot, vacuum).

2. When determining how much solution to use in cleaning, start with small amounts. Using a flip-top bottle is recommended, or use an eyedropper.

3. Dissolve with dry solvent action if unknown source. (Be wary of delamination).

4. If spot is a stain, utilize the stain wheelä to determine proper technique.

5. Do not over saturate when spotting (limit capillary action – which is essentially “wicking” or “reappearing” and the contamination works up to fibers tips. This then attracts soils. Using a poultice such as an absorbent powder or a towel, weighed down, will collect these contaminants)

6. Add solvent like d-Limonene (rinses with water) to water based pre-sprays.

7. Carry a spotting bottle with water based pre-spray and d-Limonene mixed at a higher dilution and get the spots that do not come out when cleaning the 1^st time (while you are still cleaning)

8. When removing spots/stains, work from the outside into the center of the spot/stain.

9. When there is concern of spreading the spot/stain, contain it by surrounding the spot/stain. You can mix peroxide and ammonia in equal amounts and use this as your containment. It also aids in removing the color of the stain.

10. Give your cleaning solution time to work. Dry solvents don’t need the time that water-based solutions or specialty solutions need.

11. Heat activates chemistry. Do not use excessive heat on protein stops/stains or on delicate fabric.

12. Always completely rinse cleaning solutions from the fabric.

Note: Never, unless asked to do so by a fiber producer or carpet manufacturer, make warranty judgments on carpet claims.

Other specialty chemicals:

· Fabric protectors (fluorochemical): Used to change the surface tension of fibers. A reduced tension means that soils will stick to your shoe rather than to the carpet fibers. Silicones repel water-based spots (think of a tent or umbrella), but it’s best to not use on carpet. Void mill warranties in most cases. Water-based and solvent-based fluorochemicals are available. Solvents dry faster.

· Fabric protectors (dye blockers): Colorless dyes used to fill empty dye sites in fibers, so that color spills have no place to hide.

· Deodorizers: A big money-maker in the carpet and furniture cleaning industry. Various products include masking, pairing, disinfecting, sanitizing, digesting and absorbing chemicals.

· Defoamers: Any carpet cleaner who has tried to clean a carpet when the previous cleaner left an abundant amount of soapy residues appreciates defoamers. There are silicone (water-based, causes resoiling, add only to waste tank) and powdered (can be added to rinse, although sprinkling on wet carpet works well)

· Optical brighteners: Mostly found in laundry detergents, these chemicals are not used much in the carpet cleaning industry. These are fluorescent dyes, cationic, that when exposed to ultraviolet rays, reflect and make a fiber look brighter, like a “blue-white” light.

· Anti-static chemicals: In some parts of the country with very low humidity, in older carpets, static electricity is a concern (or in industrialized rooms such as computer program areas). Today’s fibers have carbon fibers to eliminate this problem. If a customer wants an anti-stat applied, remember these are cationic.

· Acidic rinses: Using an acid rinse solves many problems. It stabilizes colors, prevents browning and yellowing, and gives the carpet a nice “hand.”

Spot dyeing:

Ideal for nylon or wool. Does not work on solution dyed carpets (polyester and olefin)

The color wheel identifies what you should use for replacement dyes.

Complete steps for color (spot dye) repair

Tools required:

· Instruction manual

· Bleach neutralizer

· Wetting/penetrating agent

· pH stabilizer

· Dye remover pen

· Measuring spoons

· Mixing cups

· Pipettes

· Color wheel

· Gray scale

· Printed color chart

· Electric cup heater

· Thermometer

· Fiber ID test kit

· Rubber gloves

· Goggles

Preparing the job… and getting to work

· Identify the fiber; make sure it is either wool or nylon.

· Sell job to customer; qualify what to expect for final results.

· Get a signed release protecting you from liability

· Bring in all equipment you will need. Avoid chasing down supplies once the procedure starts

· Determine cause of color loss. If it is sun fading or other non-chemical loss, you can go directly to prepping the spot and adding color

· Note: If the area is darker than the rest of the carpet (because a stain isn’t removable, or a dark color is the staining agent), you must make the spot lighter, because you can only dye darker, not lighter. Hydrogen peroxide (3% is safest) and ammonia mixed together is one practical way to remove a stain. You can use a reducing agent and accelerate with an acid and heat. But many use diluted chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite – household bleach) if other attempts fail – but for nylon only, as bleach dissolves wool. Be careful not to overdo it as bleach will destroy dye sites and make your coloring attempts futile. When using chlorine bleach, have plenty of bleach neutralizer on hand in case of a spill. Only trusted, trained technicians are to be trusted with this procedure. Bleaches are hazardous and can create more work for you.

· If the cause of color loss is due to chemical means, you must correct the chemical alteration. This means if the color loss was due to alkaline cleaning agents, you must clean and thoroughly neutralize the carpet with acid-based agents. If caused by pet urine, use an acid rinse and thoroughly clean damaged area.

· It’s recommended to always clean the area you will color repair because clean fibers accept dye better. Always check the pH.

· If the cause of color loss is due to bleaching then you must apply plenty of bleach neutralizer. If not, the color loss will come back. Fully saturate the area with bleach neutralizer, clean the area (unless the carpet is new or not soiled) with cold water (hot water reactivates bleach), and reapply bleach neutralizer.

· Now, leaving the bleach neutralizer on the spot, apply a pH reducer (your pH stabilizer). Your dyes will work best if applied to an acidic fiber. Follow directions when mixing all chemicals.

· Do not rinse, but blot or wet vacuum if too much liquid creates a problem.

· Work until the spot is a pH of under 7. For stain-resistant fibers, you need a pH in the dye bath between 2 and 3, and a temperature above 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

· If the color loss is benzoyl peroxide (acne medication), use a dry solvent spotter to remove the peroxide, rinse, and add bleach neutralizer and lower the pH of the spot, as indicated above.

· Once the spot is clean, any bleaches or other contaminants removed or neutralized, and the pH is acidic (best case scenario is close to 3-4 pH), you are ready to perform your color repair.

The spot dyeing procedure

One of the most important steps is to make sure your dye bath is hot, preferably above 150 degrees Fahrenheit. You can do this with a bucket of water and an electric immersion heater, or with a microwave oven handy.

To penetrate existing stain resistancy on fibers, hot water and a lower pH is key.

Use hard, plastic cups or similar containers for mixing your dye baths. For beginners, it’s a good idea to test your color mixture on a white cotton towel before applying to the carpet. It will help you learn how much powdered dye to use.

· Determine your missing primary color (or colors) is (or are). You always apply missing primaries first. Test for dye acceptance on one tuft from the discolored area

· Always start with the dye that is in its respective “warm” or “cold” color family, when working with more than one color

· Start light. You can always darken your dye bath as you work. Put a small test drop near the edge of the color repair site and work until you have a good primary match

· When working with multi-colored, patterned carpet, use a shim to place your dyes exactly where you want them. When performing color repair on multi-colored, patterned carpet, thoroughly dry the carpet between applications of each color

· Note: Don’t use human judgment when deciding what colors should go into a spot. Use your color wheel. As an example: A green carpet with a yellow spot from bleach is missing the blue primary color. Don’t add green. Add blue first to bring it back to the color “family” (because blue and yellow = green)

· Once you have a primary color match, add color throughout the spot

· Once you have brought the spot back to the color “family”, make up a dye bath closest to the final color you are working towards.

· Add a test drop. If it matches, add color throughout

· Brush the area or agitate the area often to work dyes into the dye sites

· Try to avoid blotting the dyes too often. If they aren’t given a chance to bond, your blotting will remove color. However, you also don’t want a “pond” developing under the carpet

· If a color repair isn’t exactly right, you can “erase” the wet dyes with a color removing chemical, or a dye pen, also using absorbent towels, and starting over. Your work isn’t permanent until the colors dry

· If a repaired spot is too “bright”, you can tone it down with a gray as a final finish. Gray is the combination of the three primaries in small equal mounts. This helps bring a more “earthy” tone to the finished product. You can also add an “undertone” or “cast” (a hint of another color) if necessary

· Once the repair is complete, dry the spot with a hairdryer. Make sure the repair is acceptable. If the final result is unacceptable, you can lighten it with a color remover chemical. Don’t dry until you are sure the color repair is correct.

· Tip: If a finished color repair isn’t acceptable and your color remover chemical or dye pen isn’t removing the color, add the color remover chemical and perform heat transfer with a damp, white towel and an iron

· It’s time for inspection. Have the customer look at the repair spot at first from a distance, as if someone would walk into the room. If it isn’t noticeable, you have done your job correctly

· Some of your customers will be influenced by metamerism, the variation in the perceived color of a fabric under differing light sources.

Tips and reminders

· When applying primary dyes, apply blue first, yellow second, then red

· Blue strikes faster… then yellow, and then red. Red can take up to 30 minutes to strike the fiber

· Remember that colors can be funny, and at times you might need to lightly bleach color from an area and reapply

· When color has been removed by pesticides, clean thoroughly to decontaminate, adjust the pH and apply dye

· If you find a neutralized carpet isn’t accepting the dye bath, lower your pH and raise your dye bath temperature

· Color blindness is the inability to distinguish certain colors… it doesn’t necessarily mean a person can’t see colors

· Optical brightening agents are fluorescent dyes, and should be avoided even though they make a carpet look brighter

· Stain resistant nylon fiber resists acid dye stains because an anionic protective treatment bond with cationic dye sites

Remember that many stains are really color losses, such as from benzoyl peroxides, found in acne medicines, and have to be repaired using color repair techniques.

Marketing your services

Once you are the absolute best carpet cleaner in your area, you have to market your services.

Using the best forms of marketing to generate more income is a challenge most carpet and furniture cleaners face.

Marketing: The act or process of promoting a good or service based on an urgent need of the consumer.`

Selling: The attempt to call attention to a good or service, usually through an advertised price.

If you advertise to sell something, you are putting a message out to the public that they can take advantage of; problem is, most advertising messages are all the same and they don’t give the consumer an urgent reason to call you.

But if you use marketing to promote your company, you use a message that convinces the consumer to use your even before they make that telephone call to inquire of your services.

You utilize a process that makes you valuable to the consumer – even before they know what price you charge.

Mistake #1: using prices to generate leads for your company.

Group Discussion: What marketing tools have we all used?

What are the pros and cons of them?

What is your target market?

Are you looking to do more volume or quality?

Do you know what your customers want?

Analyze your customer:

1. How old is she?

2. What kind of money does she make?

3. Does she have an education?

4. Where does she work?

5. Where does she live?

6. What does she look for in a company?

7. What form of advertising does she respond to?

Motivators in marketing:

· Don’t miss out!

· Only “I” can do this for you!

· You better use me or you won’t keep up with the “Smiths.”

Develop a sense of urgency in your marketing technique

If you market your services in a way that the consumer has plenty of time to respond, you better not need them as immediate customers.

Create a message that says “Do this now!” to drive responses.

You can use:

· Expiration dates on your ads – you never know when this offer will be available again

· Special offers – packages they can’t ignore

· Limited offers available – we are only going to do this for 10 people!

And others.

Advertising opportunities:

· Yellow pages

· Television

· Radio

· Newspapers

· Circulars

· Direct mail

· Posters

· Fliers

· Free cleanings

· Press releases

· Trading

· Five arounds

Absolute Best!

Carpet & Furniture Care

190 Thornberry Lane, Rensselaer, NY 12144

(518)000-0000

One year limited spot & stain removal warranty

Absolute Best! Carpet & Furniture Care agrees to provide

With a one (1) year spot & stain removal warranty for cleaned and treated carpets in the following areas at same location:

This warranty is in effect for one (1) calendar year commencing:_____________

In the event of a spot or stain, you must:

1. Call Absolute Best! to report the service claim. Absolute Best! will advise you as to how you can remove the spot or stain.

2. In the event you cannot remove the spot or stain, and the spot or stain is covered under this warranty, Absolute Best! will send a qualified technician at no charge to you to remove the covered spot or stain.

3. If the covered spot or stain is not removable, Absolute Best! will refund you the cost of this warranty.

What is covered under this warranty: Most soils and spills that result in spots are covered, including dirt, mud, oil, grease, and most commonly spilled foods and beverages.

What may not be covered under this warranty: Stains caused by urine, vomit, mustards, synthetic and natural dyes, bleaches, medicines, and water damage.

Package pricing for profits

Bronze package:

Precondition (customer vacuums) and clean with sanitizing process, includes basic spot removal.

Silver package:

Precondition (customer vacuums,) move most furniture, clean with sanitizing process, basic spot removal, soil retardant applied in traffic lanes.

Platinum package:

Pre-vacuum, precondition, clean under all movable furniture, remove spots and stains, apply fabric protector, apply light deodorizer, issue 1 year spot and stain warranty, supply 1 bottle spotter to customer, speed dry

What happens when you offer three choices to your customers?

Monthly residential service contracts

Imagine receiving thousands of $ each month in your mailbox – and enjoy the comfort of a secure income.

How does this work?

Many carpet and furniture cleaners have to fight their customers to get their job ticket up to where there is a profit – enough profit to run the business successfully and provide a rewarding financial future for the owner.

There is a solution to this challenge.

The Forever Clean (or whatever YOU decide to call it) program works on a few basic yet truthful principles:

1. People, no matter who they are, like a clean home. Maybe it’s not as clean as you would keep it…but clean is king.

2. Your customers are busy people so they like a regular schedule in their lives…this program means they don’t have to fret about who to call or when to call for a cleaning appointment.

3. This program features low monthly payments…we all like low monthly payments.

4. You set the schedule. You can work out a regular route of cleaning appointments, so you save time and money.

5. The more you clean for the same customer, on a regular basis, means the easier the job gets.

6. You lock in a customer for life!

Here’s how you get started:

Some simple steps:

1. Write up a simple agreement stating that you (your company) will provide a service such as a complete cleaning once per year and a “touch-up” cleaning six months later…which means you are in the home twice per year (at least.)

2. On this agreement you can write up the financial obligation of your customer. The specifics depend on you. You may ask for 10% each month of the yearly price.

3. You can offer a spot and stain warranty as an additional incentive for your customers to accept this agreement. Knowing that you will always be there for them if they need anything done will help seal the deal.

Here are the benefits:

Imagine receiving $10,000, or more, each month in your mailbox because you have your customers on a service contract.

This can be done utilizing your existing customers. How many customers do you have? Let’s say you have 1,000 individual homes you have cleaned.

You sign up 250 (over a period of time) customers to be part of your Forever Clean program. By picking 250 customers you can do approximately one job per day (for the wall to wall cleaning) to keep up with the program. Another job per day would cover the traffic lane cleaning (which takes virtually no time to perform.)

All job tickets will vary…but let’s pick $475 as an average, remembering that you will clean twice per year and do perhaps two spot and stain removal trips each year. To get to this figure you can add furniture cleaning, protector oversprays, etc.

Take 10% of $475, and you have a monthly payment of $47.50. For this amount your customer has a home that is Forever Clean. Each year you will actually receive $570 from that customer.

Each month you will receive $11,875 in your mailbox…wouldn’t that be nice in the winter months?

You can set up this program to run on debit or credit cards, or monthly billings that can be paid by check.

Customers Name:_____________________Today’s Date:____________

Thank you for letting me do your furnishing inventory. I really appreciate it. This helps me when you call back for service and also helps you realize the services my company offers.

Protector is an important part to help you maintain your furnishings and increasing the life of your furnishings. For your convenience, I have listed the protector separate from the cleaning.

Rooms Cleaning Price Protection Price

In your Entryway:

In your Living Room:

In your Family Room:

In your Dining Room:

In your Hall Way:

In your Master Bedroom:

In your 2^nd Room:

In your 3^rd Room:

In your 4^th Room:

Other areas I noticed including Odor Concerns:

Outside Cleaning Price Protection Price

Your Gutters:

Your Garage:

Your Cars:

Outside of your House:

Your Driveway:

Other Services that we offer:

Thank you once again for your patience to have me do this inventory. If you would like any of the services performed today, I can give you a discount of 20% since we are already here. If you would like these services performed in the future, I would like you to know that I would be happy to do them for the price listed. Since, things that are beyond my control change, I can guarantee you the above prices for 6 months of this cleaning.

Carpet Cleaning Homework

1. Wool fibers should be cleaned with a pH range of:

(A) not affected by pH

(B) 4.5-8.5

(D) dry clean only solvents

2. Which of the following carpet fibers is the most absorbent and require longer to dry:

(A) nylon

(B) olefin

(D) polyester

3. Cellulosic fibers are derived from:

(A) petrochemicals

(B) plants

(D) minerals

4. Which of the following fibers are protein:

(A) nylon, olefin

(B) wool, silk

(D) cotton, jute

5. A wool fiber may be used in a commercial building for what reason:

(A) low flammability

(B) owner of the building used to be a shepherd

(D) wool is inexpensive

6. Which chemical will dissolve wool:

(A) chlorine bleach

(B) formic acid

(D) sodium chloride

7. The most popular synthetic carpet fiber is:

(A) nylon

(B) olefin

(D) polyester

8. Nylon is most affected by what type of stains:

(A) oily

(B) dry soil

(D) coca cola

9. Fourth generation fibers contain what additive to improve soil and stain resistance:

(A) fluorochemical

(B) solvent

(D) acetic acid

10. Which fiber is most stain resistant:

(A) nylon

(B) wool

(D) acylic

11. Fifth generation carpets repel what type of stains:

(A) urine

(B) acid dye

(D) water damage

12. Synthetic fibers including stain resist fifth generation fibers can be safely cleaned using a pH:

(A) must use a neutral pH

(B) must use an acid pH

(D) above 10

13. Olefin fibers, especially in a Berber (loop) construction:

(A) crush easily

(B) repel oily stains

(D) are damaged by acid dye stains (Kool-Aid)

14. The fiber that melts easily from dragging furniture or due to hot couplers resting on the carpet is:

(A) polyester

(B) wool

(D) olefin

15. Polyester fibers are best used in:

(A) John Travolta’s house

(B) low traffic areas e.g. bedrooms

(D) carpet for stairways

16. Corterra PTT is a:

(A) fiber used to make those pants that squeak when your legs rub

(B) new fiber that repels acid dyes and has good resilience

(D) new car from BMW

17. When doing a burn test to identify a fiber, if the residue turns to an ash you have:

(A) really messed up

(B) a natural fiber

(D) a burnt finger

18. Which fiber floats on water:

(A) olefin

(B) nylon

(D) cotton

19. Stain resist nylon (StainMaster) is warranted against common household food and beverage in :

(A) all structures

(B) owner-occupied residences

(D) offices

20. When cleaning a carpet made of staple fibers the cleaner or consumer may encounter loose fibers. This is normal and is called:

(A) shedding

(B) big trouble

(D) staplitis

21. Primary colors consist of:

(A) change when you enter secondary school

(B) red, blue, yellow

(D) black, white, magenta

22. When a fiber is dyed during extrusion the dye method is called:

(A) beck

(B) solution

(D) print

23. Carpets that have been print dyed are found primarily in:

(A) hospitality & restaurants

(B) family rooms

(D) mobile homes

24. Bleeding is normally caused by:

(A) high alkalinity and slow drying

(B) solvent chemicals

(D) tripping over your hoses

25. Optical brighteners reflect the blue white light causing colors to be brighter but:

(A) void carpet warranties

(B) only work on cotton

(D) are a figment of our imagination

26. Pooling, watermarking and shading:

(A) can be repaired

(B) are only found in rugs

(D) only affects natural fibers

27. When the primary and secondary backings separate it is called:

(A) dimensional stability

(B) delamination

(D) divorce

28. Backings made of a synthetic material cannot:

(A) be used in woven goods

(B) shrink

(D) deflocculate

29. Woven carpets made with a natural yarn backing such as cotton or jute:

(A) are only made in the U.K.

(B) can shrink

(D) only found in mansions

30. Carpet styles Saxony, friese, and plush are examples of:

(A) cut pile

(B) loops

(D) Berbers

31. An olefin Berber carpet may be difficult to clean due to:

(A) the cleaning head bouncing on the carpet and losing vacuum

(B) olefin being so resilient

(D) solution-dyed fibers holding soil

32. The difference between real soil and apparent soil is:

(A) spelling

(B) you can charge more for real soil

(D) apparent soil cannot be removed and shows up as graying of the traffic lanes

33. The proper tool used by a professional installer to install stretch in carpet is a:

(A) knee kicker

(B) power stretcher

(D) staple gun

34. When vacuuming the technician should:

(A) slow down on the pull pass

(B) wear his special vacuuming outfit

(D) use the customers vacuum

35. Dry insoluble soil including sand, hair, skin and dust accounts for:

(A) 74-79% of total soil

(B) 50% of total soil

(D) 10% of the total soil

36. Dry insoluble soil is best removed by a:

(A) truck mount

(B) vacuum cleaner

(D) opening the windows

37. Soil suspension includes TACT which stands for:

(A) techniques used when telling the customer her house smells like a zoo

(B) tannin, acid, chemical, time

(D) petroleum

38. Grooming a cut pile carpet removes wand marks and:

(A) is usually unnecessary

(B) improves drying, and provides uniform distribution of protectors

(D) hides the spots you missed

39. Slow drying time of a synthetic carpet could lead to:

(A) shrinkage

(B) cellulosic browning

(D) better soil suspension

40. Place the principles of cleaning in the proper sequence by numbering 1-5:

(A) soil suspension

(B) soil extraction

(D) drying

(E) grooming

41. The best way to prevent cleaning complaints when dealing with a consumer is:

(A) give them a cheap price

(B) spray a deodorizer before cleaning

(D) give the dog a biscuit

42. When can you skip the dry soil removal (vacuum) step:

(A) when the customer has prevacuumed

(B) when you see no signs of visible soiling

(D) when the carpet is a dark color

43. How much dwell time should you allow the preconditioner on a synthetic carpet:

(A) extract immediately

(B) minimum of 10 – 15 minutes

(D) what is a preconditioner

44. What furniture should be tabbed or blocked:

(A) bleeders

(B) everything that you moved

(D) valuable pieces

45. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for each chemical:

(A) must be on each truck and made available to anyone requesting that information

(B) must be posted on the main entrance during cleaning

(D) is required only when small children are present during cleaning

46. Which chemical is always applied last:

(A) acid rinse

(B) fluorochemical

(D) preconditioner

47. Besides setting up airmovers for fast drying, what temperature is best for drying:

(A) 80-85

(B) 65-68

(D) 55-60

48. Where should the wastewater be legally dumped :

(A) in a street sewer

(B) down the driveway

(D) anywhere after midnight

49. Masking deodorizers (scents) are used to:

(A) permanently remove the offensive odor

(B) provide a pleasant scent while cleaning

(D) create ozone

50. Biocides are products that can:

(A) brighten the carpet

(B) be mixed into the cleaning solution

(D) be sprayed after the fluorochemical

51. The purpose of a defoamer is:

(A) keeps the foam down in your solution tank

(B) breaks down the foam in your recovery tank

(D) used on deplane

52. Even though it will void a stain resist warranty a defoamer is the best product to:

(A) break down oily spots

(B) break down old urine

(D) apply to concentrated shampoo or detergent spills

53. Static problems are most prevalent during what time of the year:

(A) summer

(B) spring

(D) winter

54. Odor problems are most prevalent during:

(A) warm humid periods

(B) cold seasons

(D) when company is coming

55. Products such as 3M Scotchgard and Dupont Teflon are known as:

(A) fluorochemicals

(B) silicones

(D) surfactants

(E) Ripoffs

56. The purpose of a fluorochemical (Scotchgard, Teflon) is to:

(A) repel soil, oil and water borne stains

(B) deodorize

(D) brighten the carpet

57. Browning is caused by:

(A) overwetting, slow drying and cellulosic material

(B) olefin Berbers

(D) solvents

(E) Getting really scared

58. Wicking is caused by:

(A) kerosene

(B) deodorizers

(D) excess residue, slow drying, dry soil not removed prior to wet cleaning

59. Yellowing (BHT) caused by rebond cushion may be removed by an application of:

(A) sodium hypchlorite

(B) a strong preconditioner

(D) an alkaline detergent

60. Soil Filtration is caused by

(A) microscopic soil particles being filtered through carpet fibers around the perimeter

(B) aliens

(D) animal urine

Place the words alkaline, acid and neutral where they belong on the chart

Place the words SOIL & DETERGENT on the proper sides of the chart

Circle the number representing the more POWERFUL pH 2 or pH 10

Place a star above the pH that you should stay under for Stain resist nylon

Place the letter W above the range of pH that are safe to clean wool

61. The definition of pH is:

(A) pretty hot

(B) phat

(D) the relative acidity or alkalinity in a water-based solution

62. The purpose of a surfactant (surface-active agent) is:

(A) to allow penetration of the cleaning solution into the fabric being cleaned

(B) to skip the vacuuming step

(D) I have no clue

63. Match the surfactant charge to the surfactant by drawing lines to the correct one:

(A) cationic negative

(B) nonionic neutral

(D) anionic Lee Majors

64. A detergent molecule has a hydrophobic tail and a hydrophilic head, what does that mean:

(A) it has a split personality

(B) the head likes water and the tail hates water but likes oil or soil

(D) it works best in a petroleum solvent

65. Doubling the amount of detergent in a cleaning solution:

(A) cleans twice as fast

(B) cleans four times faster

(D) is fine as long as the water is above 300°

66. Solubility is important because:

(A) your breathalyzer test may not work correctly

(B) it determines what the soil or spot will dissolve in

(D) it sounds impressive to other people

67. Most preconditioners and detergents are:

(A) neutral

(B) acidic

(D) petroleum solvents

68. Preconditioners designed for greasy soil found in restaurants are normally:

(A) acid sours

(B) 100% solvents

(D) cationic

69. When using any powdered detergents it is very important to:

(A) remove the TIDE label

(B) dilute thoroughly in very hot water

(D) have it blessed by the local minister

70. Using an acid rinse after thoroughly preconditioning the carpet will:

(A) make you enjoy Grateful Dead records

(B) soften the carpet, brighten the colors, neutralize the preconditioner

(D) cause rapid resoiling

71. What is the best way to identify a spot or stain:

(A) cut out the spot and send it to Dalton, GA for analysis

(B) use your senses, location of the spot and ask the customer

(D) spray it with your magic potion and if it doesn’t come out call it a stain

72. Identify the spots below by placing the letter of the appropriate spotter next to the spot:

(A) volatile dry spotter VDS

(B) non volatile spotter NVDS or POG paint, oil, grease remover

(D) neutral detergent spotter NDS

(E) alkaline spotter ADS

(F) acid/tannin spotter AS

(G) enzyme/digester spotter

(H) rust remover

SPOTS – you may use more than one spotter

small grease drip rust

old milk spill ink

gum old paint

lipstick shoe polish

catsup nail polish

coca cola iced tea

coffee residue from POG

73. Using too much of a POG may cause:

(A) delamination

(B) uncontrollable twitching

(D) bleach spots

74. The most important issue when using solvents is:

(A) looking good while you remove the spot

(B) ventilation

(D) keeping your business from becoming insolvent

75. This chemical helps to safely remove color stains by adding oxygen:

(A) a box cutter

(B) oxidizers such as 3% hydrogen peroxide

(D) Billy’s bathtub chemical formulation pH 15.5

Methods of Cleaning

Match up the methods to the descriptions

All methods require dry soil removal prior to cleaning.

76. This method is the most popular method and most recommended by fiber producers and carpet manufacturers. A preconditioner is applied to the carpet, agitated and allowed to dwell for 10-15 minutes to allow adequate soil suspension. The suspended soil and detergent is extracted by a portable, walk behind or truck mounted extractor. The four components of soil suspension (time, agitation, chemical, temperature) are best utilized in this method. The technician is responsible if overwetting should occur.

This method is called__________________________________

77. This method uses a machine that aerates the detergent into a thick shaving cream like foam. As with the previous method a preconditioner may or may not be used first. Following the application of the foam a large cylindrical brush agitates the foam into the carpet and then immediately extracts the suspended soil and detergent in to the machine. Used properly the method is a low moisture method. Once again this method does not provide deep cleaning.

This method is called______________________________________

78. This method involves sprinkling an organic or synthetic compound (powder) on the carpet. A preconditioner may or may not be used prior to application of the compound.

The compound is brushed into the carpet by means of a brush or a machine and allowed to dwell on the carpet for a period of time (10-30 minutes). Once the compound has absorbed the soil it is removed by vacuuming. The benefit of this method is fast drying. The down side is high material costs and lack of deep cleaning.

This method is called _____________________________________

79. This method is the oldest method of carpet cleaning. The machine has a holding tank for the shampoo. This shampoo is fed down onto the brush. The brush turning at approximately 175 RPM creates a foaming detergent. The brush provides plenty of agitation making up for the lack of heat. This is an excellent method for commercial or used as a preconditioner prior to extraction. If the technician does not break in the brush or does not apply enough shampoo to lubricate the fibers, damage may occur to cutpile carpets.

This method is called________________________________________

80. This method is extremely popular in commercial cleaning. A rotary machine fitted with absorbent pads is used. Detergent is sprayed onto the carpet and the absorbent pad. Another method incorporates dipping the pads into a bucket of detergent. During the spin buffing phase of soil suspension, the bonnet (pad) attracts or absorbs the soil. Technicians need to monitor the pad and turn it over or replace the pad when it becomes filled with soil. This is an excellent method for maintenance or appearance cleaning. This is considered an interim cleaning method and should be extracted after 2-3 cleanings.

This method is called____________________________________

The IICRC reviews course manuals only to verify that each manual covers all of the test questions on the respective course exam, and that the course manual otherwise meets the criteria in the IICRC Policy and Procedures Manual. The IICRC does not otherwise review or approve course manuals for content or technical accuracy. The schools are independent of the IICRC and the responsibility for course manual content and technical accuracy, except as to exam question coverage, remains the responsibility of the respective schools and not the IICRC.

REVISED RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR IICRC

CERTIFICATIONS AVAILABLE BY EXAMINATION

CERTIFIED CARPET CLEANING TECHNICIAN (CCT) Exam 101

CERTIFIED RUG CLEANING TECHNICIAN (RCT) Exam 141

* Prerequisites: IICRC Certification in CCT or CCMT, and UFT

CERTIFIED COMMERCIAL CARPET MAINTENANCE TECHNICIAN (CCMT) Exam 201

HEALTH AND SAFETY TECHNICIAN (HST) Exam 202

CERTIFIED STONE, MASONRY & CERAMIC TILE CLEANING TECHNICIAN (SMT) Exam 241

CERTIFIED UPHOLSTERY & FABRIC CLEANING TECHNICIAN (UFT) Exam 301

CERTIFIED LEATHER CLEANING TECHNICIAN (LCT) Exam 311

CERTIFIED WATER DAMAGE RESTORATION TECHNICIAN (WRT) Exam 501

CERTIFIED CARPET REPAIR & REINSTALLATION TECHNICIAN (RRT) Exam 601

CERTIFIED COLOR REPAIR TECHNICIAN (CRT) Exam 701

CERTIFIED FLOOR CARE TECHNICIAN (FCT) Exam 890

CERTIFIED FIRE & SMOKE RESTORATION TECHNICIAN (FSRT) Exam 901

* Academic: Must attend an approved course with fourteen (14) hours of classroom instruction and pass appropriate exams with 75% or higher.

CERTIFIED ODOR CONTROL TECHNICIAN (OCT) Exam 401

* Academic: Must attend an approved course with eight (8) hours of classroom instruction and pass exam with 75% or higher.

APPLIED STRUCTURAL DRYING TECHNICIAN (ASD) Exam 511

* Academic: Attend approved 3-day course with at least 24 hours of classroom instruction and pass exam with 75% or higher.

* Prerequisite: IICRC Certification in WRT

APPLIED MICROBIAL REMEDIATION TECHNICIAN (AMRT) Exam 521

* Academic: Attend approved 4-day course with at least 28 hours of instruction (20% hand-on) and pass exam with 75% or higher.

* Prerequisite: IICRC Certification in WRT

APPLIED MICROBIAL REMEDIATION SPECIALIST (AMRS)

* Prerequisites: AMRT: and HST or an OSHA 10 hour General Industry Health and Safety course, or other suitable program subject to IICRC approval; and one year verifiable microbial remediation experience after the date of issuance of the AMRT certification; and one of the following within one calendar year immediately before AMRS qualification: 10 verifiable microbial remediation projects or 1000 hours verifiable microbial remediation experience. Verification is by written Witness Statement under penalty of perjury plus an appropriate Project Sheet(s).

CERTIFIED CARPET INSPECTOR (SCI) Exam 801

* Academic: Must attend at least thirty five (35) hours of classroom instruction over a five (5) day period and pass exam with 75% or higher.

* Prerequisites: IICRC Certification in CCMT or CCT and RRT. In lieu of the RRT, the student may have achieved the Certified Floorcovering Installers Association (CFI) CFI-R1, R2, C1, C2, CFI Master Installer status or attended the CFI Installation for the Inspector program, Installation Training (FIT) program, or achieved Journeyman status in an approved installation program. During the first year after passing the IICRC inspector exam, the individual is required to submit a minimum of ten (10) inspection reports which will be reviewed by the Inspector Committee. Inspector status will not be awarded until such time these reports are approved by committee.

INTRODUCTION TO SUBSTRATE SUBFLOOR INSPECTION (ISSI) Exam 811

MARBLE & STONE INSPECTOR (MSI) Exam 821

* Prerequisite: IICRC Certification in ISSI and FCT

RESILIENT FLOORING INSPECTOR (RFI) Exam 831

* Prerequisite: IICRC Certification in ISSI and FCT

CERAMIC TILE INSPECTOR (CTI) Exam 841

* Prerequisite: IICRC Certification in ISSI and FCT

WOOD LAMINATE FLOORING INSPECTOR (WLFI) Exam 851 & 852

* Prerequisite: IICRC Certification in ISSI and FCT

* Academic for all hard surface inspection courses: Attend approved course with at least 14 hours of classroom instruction and pass exams with 75% or higher.

ADVANCED DESIGNATIONS (NO EXAMINATION)

JOURNEYMAN TEXTILE CLEANER (JTC)

Twelve (12) months active service in the industry after original certification date, plus attainment of specific designations as listed below. Designation will automatically be awarded upon attainment of the proper credits

* Certification in(CCT or CCMT) and UFT and either (OCT, CRT or RRT)

JOURNEYMAN FIRE & SMOKE RESTORER (JSR)

Twelve (12) months active service in the industry after original certification date plus attainment of specific categories as listed below.

* Certification in UFT, OCT and FSRT

JOURNEYMAN WATER RESTORER (JWR)

Twelve (12) months active service in the industry after original certification date plus attainment of specific categories as listed below.

* Certification in (CCT or CMT), WRT and RRT

MASTER TEXTILE CLEANER (MTC)

A minimum of three (3) years after original certification date plus attainment of specific certifications as listed below.

* Certification in (CCT or CCMT), UFT, OCT, (RRT or BRT) and CRT

MASTER FIRE & SMOKE RESTORER (MSR)

A minimum of three (3) years after original certification date plus attainment of specific certifications as listed below.

* Certification in (CCT or CCMT), UFT, OCT, FSRT and (HST or equivalent)

MASTER WATER RESTORER (MWR)

A minimum of three (3) years after original certification date plus attainment of specific certifications as listed below.

* Certification in (CCT or CCMT), RRT, WRT, ASD, AMRT/S and (HST or equivalent)

IICRC TESTING FEE STRUCTURE

All Technician Exams (excluding AMRT & Inspector): $50.00

AMRT and INSPECTOR: $150.00

Retest: $25.00

RETESTING

If technician doesn’t pass an exam and wishes to retake, there will be a fee of $25. Only two retakes are allowed. Exam must be retaken within 90 days of receiving test results otherwise re-attendance will be required before testing can be done again.

ANNUAL REGISTRATION FEE

After one (1) year, registrant will receive annual renewal billing. If certified in 1 or 2 categories, fee will be $30 annually, 3 and 4 categories is $40 and 5 or more categories is $50 annually. Master status will be an additional $10.00. Applied Microbial Remediation certification will be $60.00 annually. If registrant lets certification lapse for a period of over twelve (12) months, he or she will be required to re-attend an approved school, retake exam and pay appropriate fees. If registrant wishes to reinstate certification within the twelve (12) month period, outstanding fees and fulfillment of continuing education credits will be required. Registrants must follow the Code of Ethics or be subject to sanctions up to and including loss of certification.

CERTIFIED INSPECTOR: Once the inspector has passed the probationary requirements, he or she may choose to be listed as “Practicing” or “Credentialed”. Practicing inspectors will pay $80.00 annually for fees with listing on the #800 IICRC Referral System and the web site, while Credentialed will pay $40.00 per year with no listing.

CERTIFIED FIRMS: A Certified Firm Application Request Form must be requested and returned to IICRC with a nonrefundable $25.00 processing fee. Upon approval of the request form, the firm will be sent Application for Certified Firm. The Application for Certified Firm must be forwarded to headquarters with the annual fee of $125.00. This is a separate fee from the $25.00 processing fee and is also nonrefundable. Once Certified Firm status is granted, the firm is immediately listed on the #800 IICRC Referral System as well as the IICRC web site at www.iicrc.org. The Certified Firm is also eligible at this time to use the registered trademark for advertising purposes.

THE IICRC RESERVES THE UNQUALIFIED RIGHT TO CHANGE AND REVISE THE POLICIES, PROCEDURES AND REQUIREMENTS.

You may review the Privacy Policy at www.iicrc.org/privacypolicy

Revised 10/06

Process for becoming an IICRC Certified Firm

Firms must first fill out a Certified Firm Application Request Form and submit to IICRC headquarters with a non-refundable $25 application fee. The Certified Firm Application Request Form is included with these instructions.

Once the request form is received and reviewed to make sure the Certified Technicians are still with the firm and have a current registration, the firm will be sent a Certified Firm Application and Code of Ethics.

The firm must sign and return a completed application and the IICRC Certified Firm Code of Ethics, along with a copy of its business license (if applicable), proof of insurance, and a non-refundable $125 for the first year’s registration fees.

If a firm does not meet the requirements to become an IICRC Certified Firm upon submission of a Certified Firm application, the pending application will be held for up to six months. During this period, the firm is allowed to take the necessary steps to meet the requirements.

All Certified Firms will have a common anniversary date of December 1 of each year. The first annual renewal bill will be prorated based on the acceptance date of the original registration. For example, if the firm became registered on June 1of the year at which time it paid the $125 annual registration, the annual renewal bill in November would be $63.00. Thereafter, the annual renewal bill will be equal to the full annual renewal amount set by the IICRC Board of Directors.

When a firm is 90 days delinquent on its fees, the firm will be dropped from the roster. The firm may be reinstated when requirements are met and fees are paid.

Certified Firms are not eligible to order supplies or receive Certified Firm credentials until such time they meet all requirements.

Only Certified Firms may display the registered trademark.

Institute of Inspection, Cleaning

and Restoration Certification

2715 East Mill Plain Blvd

Vancouver, WA 98661

(360) 693-5675 fax (360) 693-4858

e-mail: info@iicrc.org

CERTIFIED FIRM APPLICATION REQUEST FORM

Name: Title:

Company Name:

Company Address:

City: State/Prov: Zip/Postal Code:

Country: E-Mail:

Phone: Fax:

If you know the names of IICRC Certified Technicians currently employed by the firm, please list their names here:

Request for Certified Firm Application fee is $25.00 (U.S. Funds) and must accompany this form. Fees are nonrefundable.

r Check or Money Order enclosed or:

Please charge my: r Visa r MasterCard r American Express

Account number: Expiration date: V-Code:

Cardholder Name:

Signature:

Send fee along with this completed request form to:

IICRC

2715 East Mill Plain Blvd

Vancouver, Washington 98661

In addition to the application fee, the annual fee for Certified Firms status is $125 (U.S. funds) and must accompany your final application.

If the firm does not meet the requirements to become an IICRC Certified Firm upon submission of this request, the pending application will be held for six months.

IICRC CCT Manual and Test Sample

Table of Contents

Absolute Best!

Carpet & Furniture Care

One year limited spot & stain removal warranty

Package pricing for profits

Monthly residential service contracts

Outside Cleaning Price Protection Price

Place the letter W above the range of pH that are safe to clean wool

Methods of Cleaning

Match up the methods to the descriptions

This method is called______________________________________

This method is called________________________________________

CERTIFIED FIRM APPLICATION REQUEST FORM

IICRC